In a chilly warehouse, on rue de Lubeck in Paris’ 16 Arrondissement, models strode assuredly in Antonio Ortega’s designs for SS15.
Skimpy outfits were the norm for the season as Ortega introduced us to a world inspired by Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper and female heroin’s and superheroes. With a main focus on the space that inhabits these opposing visions, the collection subsequently transforms the Antonio Ortega woman into a dynamic, yet delicate, form.
Heavily printed fabrics create a contemporary blur as they become accentuated by body movement. The cut of the garments encourages further movement, emphasising the merging of colour and introduces sensuality with the continued glimpses of skin.
Ethic, tribal qualities are paramount to the feel of the collection, while lightweight fabric, perforations, frayed hemlines and criss-cross stitching are central to the design technique.
Stitching is sewn with ribbon to underline structure, while layering accentuates the barrage of colour, including hot pink, turquoise, orange and purple.
To glorify the woman’s body, Ortega favours the waist and neckline, while playing with length.
A metallic silver dress, layered over wide-leg taupe trousers, emblazoned with orange, purple and green hues perfectly demonstrates this play with colour and length.
Pink was the colour for the season, incorporated into nearly all garments, while headwear was equally as important, with models perfectly balancing ‘Fragile’ emblazoned discs to the back of the head.
Fabric bows were tied on stomachs and calves in a varied collection of dresses, A-symmetrical skirts, trousers, shorts and jackets.
Biker boots, Chelsea boots, metallic basketball shoes, loafers and Gladiator sandals all made for interesting and varied styling choices, while techno gyspy music with violins was just as equal an onslaught for the senses.
For the season, Ortega has created shining garments from rather dark inspirational themes, offering a bold wardrobe to women wishing to express their femininity and above all their freedom.
With hints of watercolour, lustre, anime, humour, tweed, kaleidoscope, metalwork, pleating and sports luxue all also signifiers of the collection, it truly is a characteristic of excellent creativity and design ability to be able to consolidate seamlessly these properties into one fluid collection. And while it was certainly an enjoyable collection, it was one that resonated highly as ready to wear, in terms of content, rather than couture.