On day two of Couture Week, Danish designer, Christian Lagerwaard, invited guests to the Dutch Institute, in Paris’ 7th arrondissement, to show his SS15 collection.
If a gentle summer’s breeze on the beach could be made tangible then one would envisage Lagerwaard’s latest collection.
Awash with soft, delicate colours that resonated more as aged sun-bleaching rather than pastel – though pastel was a characteristic that flooded PFW – Lagerwaard debuted a variety of dresses ranging from knee-length to floor-length, with slashes to the front extending to the thighs to create a trailing cape-like movement.
Models, from the Maastricht modelling agency, CJ Models, were styled with exclusive 24 carat gold, buffalo horn glasses.
In the surprisingly small collection, encompassed with slim, sleek, feminine silhouette, the use of material was noteworthy.
Giving texture to his concepts by using the softest of materials, the collection featured silk chiffon and georgette.
Shape was formed from the use of wool, an odd fabric choice for Spring/Summer, with soft, hand-ripped silk chiffon hemline fringing on all pieces adding an absent-minded touch of 90’s that didn’t quite fit.
Appliquéd rose embellishments encompassed exaggerated fringing and did nothing to strike excitement in this writer.
One dress, with roses acting as the theme, was the most stirring of the showcase. Its unashamed use of vivid colour (finally!) and inclusion of volume through petticoats instilled a flicker of excitement in an otherwise lifeless collection.
Overall fabric and design technique were a miss, though Lagerwaard strove to design for a woman affected by retro, with a desire to exude sexuality.
With slim cuts the collection certainly embraced the female form, while allowing skin to come through in a dignified manner at the shoulders, arms, back and neckline, and most daringly of all, the legs.
However, this collection, in Lagerwaard’s 30th year as a couturier was certainly underwhelming and had none of the hallmarks of a revered designer worn by royalty.