In a strikingly paired back start to the show, by a designer synonymous with lively prints, guests were immediately assured of a continued change in direction, following on from last season, by Greek designer Mary Katrantzou.
Body con dresses with elaborate fishtail hems brought dynamism to a sombre, slow start in terms of colour and silhouette, where grey felted wool dominated in the opening stages and placed emphasis on shape.
This was merely the calm before the storm as models paraded down the runway in a barrage of colour and print, Katrantzou signatures.
But wait, in this display there is a difference. For AW15, Katrantzou has continued to rid her work of digital prints in favour of flocked paisley, rococo lace, and geometric and futuristic patterns.
Shift dresses exuded two different personalities with pattern blocking acting as Katrantzou’s answer to colour blocking.
Surface decoration was a key detail in design and created a class of texture to the discord of patterns. An intarsia mink coat was decorated to the front with appliquéd plastic geometric tablets while the baby pink 3D catwalk featured on waistbands.
Floral prints appeared heavily but nearly unassumingly in colour choices of navy, olive, crimson, purple and khaki.
It was not a collection without hiccups however – a coat duffle coat with toggle buttons in blue and brown floral print was paired with grey tights and heralded as a throwback to Grandma’s curtains. An accompanying dress also failed to impress.
Those fishtail hems from earlier dominated during the middle in lively, all-over prints and later emerged to close the show as elegant evening wear ensembles adding fluidity and movement to neatly tailored assortments of crop tops and patterned bustiers.
Boxy dresses and tops, those skirts and her ribbed, cropped sweaters in bright citrus hues will all undoubtedly be snapped up by her legion of Katrantzou die-hards. We’ll certainly be one of them.
And that duffle floral print? All is forgiven.