As we begin to prepare to embrace the cooler climes we’re looking back at AW14 to spot trends from some of the biggest designer names in the business. Bringing you some of the most notable techniques from New York, London, Milan and Paris we’ve uncovered what you can expect to find on the high street in the coming weeks:
Just like its predecessors, AW14 in London saw the traditional Winter season palette cast aside. Expect all things bright and colourful this season as intense hues were brought to the forefront at Giles, Christopher Raeburn, Burberry and Antipodium. Bold shades of red, in oxblood and vermillion, were notable at Matthew Williamson, while in Milan Dolce & Gabbana’s finale featured little Red Riding Hood. Whistles and Issa gave pastels time to shine with grey blues, blush tones and heathers, while blue appears to be this season’s biggest colour contender. Royal blue, perhaps an ode to the young Prince George, flooded the catwalk back in Febuary as seen at Roksanda Ilincic and Topshop Unique. The seemingly imperishable IT-model, Cara Delevigne, also rocked a blue Mulberry suit at the launch of her Mulberry bag range back in February. Wait for the high street imitations.
The 90’s has already had resurgence in the endless double denim ensembles, midriff bearing crop tops and disco pants that have been unleashed on the high street. And the revival of the decade has been heightened this season with bomber jackets, chokers and houndstooth as standard. In London, Nasir Mazhar models looked like backing dancers for TLC, sporting wide-legged tracksuit pants with chunky boots and stomachs on show. Fyodor Golan showcased metallic high-shine jackets while Ashish models took to the runway in light-up platform Buffalos – the Spice Girls would be proud!
New York first introduced plaids this season with Tommy Hilfiger’s entire show being a tartan frenzy affair, including knits and woolly hats. Vera Wang, Badgley Mischka and Rag & Bone also played with the print. London certainly followed suit with tartan at Margaret Howell an effortlessly classic touch and the double breasted Prince of Wales blazer a standout at Richard Nicoll. Elsewhere floral, a never-ending touch, featured at House of Holland and Paul Smith while in Milan, the work of artist Magnus Plessen influenced the prints on Marni’s unstructured dress. Striped patterns got a reworking too: at Jonathan Saunders they were more emphasised than ever before and featured abstractly on bias cut dresses.
Textured layering was possibly the most prolific trend across AW14. For obvious reasons of course, it gets darn cold in these fashion oases during Winter! In Paris, Sacai sheathed models in woollen jackets, knitted cardigans, shearling, pom-pom style furs and dresses overlapped with scarves. Over in Milan, Prada draped thick long scarves over shearling leather coats. In London, Temperley and Peter Pilotto also cocooned models, the latter which incorporated majestic mountain vista prints across garments to give a 3D impression to the clothes. At Burberry, scarves were matched to coats to emphasise layering while the hottest accessory in town – Burberry’s famous initialled patchwork blanket-coat just begs to be draped over the rest of your wardrobe!
Embellishment and Metallic
Perhaps an ode to the glowing, twinkling lights that come with Winter, Fashion Week did embellishment and metallic with zeal for this season. In Milan, a crystal embellished coat featured at Fendi, while Gucci adorned a leather dress with a jewelled bib panel. In Paris a charming arrow motif at Carven showcased diamanté, while sequins worked their glistening magic at Saint Laurent and appliqué flowers featured sparkling treasures at Emmanuel Ungaro. Isabel Marant unleashed subtle silver metallic jackest and Daks set LFW shimmering in gold and silver on coats, jumpsuits, shoes and gloves. Definitely one for the magpies!
And how does this compare to Autumn/Winter of the past? Here’s what ruled the runway in previous seasons:
1. In recent times, Autumn/Winter has become more flamboyant than expected. Designers like KTZ, Meadham Kirchhoff and Holly Fulton have embraced louder aesthetics, using bold prints, louder colours and uncustomary fabrics.
2. Red was still hot with ‘the Lady in Red’ being a muse for many designers at AW13. Models clad head to toe in the hue were spotted at David Koma, Eudon Choi, Jonathon Saunders and J.W Anderson.
3. A Hybrid theme saw two garments fused together to create one silhouette as favoured back in February 2013 by J.W Anderson and Mary Katrantzou.
4. A-Line was a popular silhouette for a lot of designers in London including Meadham Kirchhoff, Roksanda Ilincic and Simone Rocha. At her NYFW presentation Chloe Sevigny, for Opening Ceremony, showcased A-line skirts and swing coats in bold 60s designs,while Charlotte Ronson also featured A-line.
1. Brocade featured lavishly, with gold and silver contrasting against black at Osman, Dolce and Gabanna, Dries Van Noten and Balmain.
2. Peplum had hit the catwalk in AW11 and was back for AW12 in dresses, pencil skirts and tops. Parisian designers including Lanvin, Dior and Star Hu, as well as Simone Rocha and Mary Katrantzou in London, soon saw their technique explode onto the high street.
3. Purple was the colour for AW12, taking over across the international shows. At Gucci, the shade was dark, gothic and mysterious, while in London, Christopher Kane models walked on lavender to compliment the shade throughout his collection. Vivienne Westwood, Erdem, Prada, Miu Miu and Louis Vuitton were just a few more who also played with shade.
4. In London Topshop Unique unveiled a fiercely military inspired collection with attitude-ridden models clad in khaki greens and heavy black boots. The theme was also seen at Acne, Margaret Howeel, Peter Jensen, Salvatore Ferragamo and Victoria Beckham.
Our tips for getting your A/W look noticed:
1. A large textured coat is a must. Aim for one with big lapels to ensure it really stands out.
2. In Winter, the question is always heels or boots? So why not both? Aim for leather Chelsea or biker boots with a small heel to add sass to your look while ensuring you can storm through those puddles undefeated!
3. Wear a singular earring to really get people talking, as seen at Celine and Louis Vuitton. If you’re going to pull this off though, you need to choose a large, extravagant statement piece. Essentially, the bigger and louder, the better. And why not give the other one to your friend for Christmas? Win!
4. Hats aren’t for everyone so don’t force it, but a wide-brimmed floppy fedora looks elegant and chic and it’s perfect for rainy days.
5. A really good leather skirt is always a staple in winter. Whether a pencil skirt or flared, tt’s water resistant and helps keeps the warmth in. Pair with an on trend burgundy shirt, resilient boots and that large, cosy coat for the perfect winter outfit!
And who can we expect to turn to in times of crisis when we need styling tips ASAP? Here’s our list of celebrities to watch for this season:
Of course! This lady attended so many Paris Fashion Week shows the spectacle got given its own hash tag: #PaRih. Known for being on trend both on and off the red carpet Riri is bound to be spotted in this season’s must have looks.
Despite launching only two years ago and having only one album to her name, Rita Ora is hot becoming the toast of the fashion world. As the face of DKNY and having recently unveiled her AW14 collaboration with Adidas, Ora will next work with Burberry on their latest campaign. With her trademark blonde locks and scarlet red lips, Ora will easily be spotted in the collections that stole the shows across NY, London, Paris and Milan.
While we all love Jennifer Lawrence for being the girl next door who dresses candidly in her free time, she has that charming ability to light up the red carpet. As the face of Dior, she has rarely ever gotten it wrong and with award season fast approaching, all eyes will be on Lawrence, who is undoubtedly becoming a couture icon.
Having recently been crowned the UK’s top trendsetter, and after regaining her place on prime-time TV in front of millions, all eyes will be on Cheryl Fernandez-Versini and her outfits both on and off the screen. Cheryl manages to effortlessly merge both high street and high fashion, allowing a wide range of women to turn to her for style tips.
Having long been considered a fashion impresario and icon, Nicole Richie has won over legions of fans with her edgy, bohemian princess look. Always impeccably well dressed and able to rock any look – think grey hair at the 2013 Met Gala! – Richie’s connections and role in the fashion world ensure she is always a Manolo Blahnik-clad foot ahead of the rest of the pack!